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CHAMOIS STANDARDS CS99-1970

1. Scope:
This Standard covers the characteristics for genuine chamois made from sheepskin or lambskin fleshers, fish-oil tanned.
2. Purpose:
2.1 This Standard is not intended to establish grades or quality differentiations of genuine chamois. It is specifically intended to define the general characteristics and performance characteristics of the genuine chamois skin as a basis of identification only, without regard to size or configuration. It is for whole skins or any cut patterns derived therefrom, and not for pieced skins.
2.2 The General Characteristics in Section 3, Physical Characteristics in Section 4, and Chemical Characteristics in Section 5 are such as may be met by any correctly oil tanned chamois.
2.3 It is specifically intended that the compliance with this Standard shall not be claimed, referenced, or in fact, be recognized, for any products meeting only parts or the combined Characteristics in Sections 3, 4 and 5. Reference of compliance to parts or Sections of this Standard shall only be made, when the statement of partial compliance is accompanied by a specific enumeration of the numbered Sections of the Standard for which compliance is not, or cannot be claimed.
3. General Characteristics:
3.1 MATERIAL.Chamois shall be made from undersplit of sheepskin, or lambskin, split before tanning
3.2 TANNAGE.Chamois covered by this Standard shall be full fish oil-tanned so as to produce a soft absorbent material. No combination process of tanning, utilizing cod or other oils in mixture with significant amounts of other tanning agents, as described in Table II, Chemical Characteristics, shall be permitted.
3.3 FINISH.Chamois shall be suede finished on one or both sides.
3.4 COLOR.Chamois shall be the natural color obtained from oil tannage. It shall not be subjected to any form of chemical bleaching or dyeing.
3.5 DIMENSIONS.
3.5.1 Chamois in this Standard may be whole skins, pattern cut skins, pocket-shaped or any configuration obtained from the original skin after tanning.
3.5.2 Either extreme dimensions of overall length and width or square area are recognized as an acceptable industry practice of determining size
4. Physical Characteristics:
The median thickness of any skin, breaking strength, water absorption, water removed by wringing and time wetting, shall meet the values specified in Table I and shall be according to tests specified in paragraph 7.
TABLE I    PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Median Thickness Minimum Breaking Strength Minimum Water Absorption Minimum Water Removed by Wringing Minimum Time of Wetting Maximum
1/64 Inch 30 pounds 375 grams per 100 grams of conditioned leather 200 grams per 100 grams of conditioned leather 30 seconds
4.1 REPAIRED SKINS. Skins which have been repaired by sewing will be considered as in compliance with this Standard if the chamois used otherwise meets all the requirements of this Standard.
5. Chemical Characteristics:
The chemical characteristics of chamois leather shall be shown in Table II when tested as specified in paragraph 7.
TABLE II    CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Characteristic
*Moisture free basis
Maximum Minimum
*TOTAL ASH % 12.0 -
*IRON AND ALUMINUM AS Fe2O1 + A12O1 % 1.5 -
*CHROMIUM AS CR2O1 % 0.0 -
*FREE FORMALDEHYDE ACIDITY (pH) % 0.05 -
- 6.5
6. Marking:
6.1 Each skin shall carry the identifying mark, name of trademark of the distributor, or other person entering the skin into commerce for the purposes of retail sale.
6.2 Compliance with this Standard does not give any right to use the registered trademark of the Sponge and Chamois Institute for Genuine Chamois except where specific license for such use is in effect.
7. Test Procedures:
The following procedures shall be used to establish conformance with the provisions of this Standard. Questions relating to procedures and test methods shall be verified and arbitrated through the official published methods of the American Leather Chemists Association, c/o University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Characteristic Paragraph No. Test Method
Finish 3.3 Visual inspection
Physical Characteristics per Table I 4.0 (See appendix A)
Chemical Characteristics per Table II 5.0 (See appendix B)
Marking 6.0 Visual Inspection
8. Reference Documents:
The latest issues of the following:
1) Federal Specifications:
KK-L-311, Leather, Methods of Sampling and Testing KK-C-300, Chamois, Leather, Sheepskin, Oil-tanned
2) Published methods of the American Leather Chemists Association
3) License Agreement for the Chamois Mark of the Sponge and Chamois Institute
APPENDIX
I. Test Methods
(a) Physical Characteristics (see Section 7.0)
1) Median thickness. Thickness shall be determined by the average of five measurements taken an equal distance along the length dimension, In accordance with applicable portions of Method 1011 of Federal Specification KK-L-31a (January 19, 1953).
2) Breaking Strength. Shall be determined in accordance with Method 2031.1 of Federal Specification KK-L-311a, Amendment 4, Part 3 (November 6, 1962).
3) Water absorption. Water removed by wringing shall be determined in accordance with paragraph 4.3.1 of Federal Specification KK-C-300c (June 13, 1969).
4) Time of wetting. Shall be determined in accordance with paragraph 4.3.3 of Federal Specification KK-C-300c (June 13,1969).
(b) Chemical Characteristics (see Section 7.0)
1) Total ash. Shall be determined in accordance with Method 6421 of Federal Specification KK-L-311a (January 19, 1953).
2) Iron and Aluminum. Shall be determined in accordance with Method 6531 of Federal Specification KK-L-311a (January 19,1953).
3) Chromic oxide. Shall be determined in accordance with Method 6521 of Federal Specification KK-L-311a (January 19, 1953) and footnote 4 of Table, paragraph 4.3 of Federal Specification KK-C-300c (June 13, 1969).
4) Free formaldehyde. Shall be in accordance with paragraph 4.3.4 of Federal Specification KK-C-300c (June 13, 1969).
5) Acidity (pH). Shall be determined accordance with Test Method 6621 of Federal Specification KK-L-311a (January 19, 1953).
II. Testing Lot
For compliance determination purposes, testing shall require submissions of no less than six skins selected at random.
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